The contemporary Roman-based jewellery designer Lucia Odescalchi is renowned for her original and independent designs never influenced by time and fashion. The use of material which ranges from the application of traditional gems, minerals, often used in combination with titanium, steel, carbon fiber, silicone, resine, aluminium helped her to conquer exquisite clientele that highly appreciated modern vision and innovative look of Lucia Odescalchi jewels. Precision , subtlety and a very special aesthetics grant out Lucia Odescalchi jewellery its elegance and strong identity. In our exclusive interview with Lucia Odescalchi, you will find out what she thinks about the future of the jewellery industry and how she manages to maintain her own path in the unique world of jewellery.
L.C.: When and how the brand Lucia Odescalchi was born?
L.O.: The brand Lucia Odescalchi Gioielli was born in 2004. I have already worked in the jewellery field, creating items and selling them to museums. From the very beginning I started by perfecting the techniques, making copies and selling to museums. So there were mainly roman, etruscan jewels, and it was called “Oro dei Musei”-Gold of Museums. Then I left this activity, and taking my own path I started my personal research of new objects and since then I never stopped.
L.C.: How do you define your style? What are the distinguishing traits of your jewellery?
L.O.: My style is surely marked by many languages put together and overlaid, which to my mind makes jewellery be timeless, in this case responding to any needs the jewel has to give. I think that a jewel has not to change quickly than fashion, not six months or a year. It somehow must be linked to outfits. So, allowing icons of the past to survive , inspired by Victorian epoque, Viennese secession, combining things together, and making of old and new pieces an object of timeless value that will be recognizable so far.
L.C.: Which is fundamental for you to create exclusive jewels: gems or metals?
L.O.: It starts from two different things. Certainly I am in love with plenty of gems. Generally I attend mineralogy fairs, where I can find minerals which then I use to create my jewels. So we speak precisely about minerals than gemstones, as my collection usually consists of five pieces, combining metals with gemstones, aluminium, steel, etc.
L.C.: What is your favorite gemstone ?
L.O.: I have always worked mainly with rock crystal. To my opinion, it’s easy to work with, while spliting it in half, you can wrap it in gold or platinum but it doesn’t become “shining” or “spirkling” like an artificial jewel. It has a modern, contemporary aspect that is appreciated by clients.
L.C. Is jewellery more than just an adornment for a modern woman?
L.O.: Absolutely yes. We have to learn to use jewels. They are different types of jewellery, e.g., icons jewellery, that accompany you throughout life, those that protect you. Then another kind of items that express your personality, make you become self-confident, independent.
L.C.: What is your favorite kind of jewel? According to you, what is a must -have for a modern woman?
L.O.: For me definitely earrings, without which I never go out, as without lipstick. So earrings are must-have. You can wear small ones by day, and precious, entirely studded with gems by night. I also like rings, because,while the necklace and earrings I put on, personally I don’t see them , but you see them when look at me; the ring, you can play with it, it can help you to think over as well as bracelets.
L. C.: Is there any jewellery item that symbolize particularly Lucia Odescalchi Gioielli?
L.O.: I like very much my jewellery line named “Rain”. It has definitely bulky and rigid forms, but all consists of small stones-beads that move, that’s a kind of gestures, which comes to life. It is also called “Rain” due to a characteristic noise “tsch” of the rain(beads movement); its must be listened while wearing. I admire this collection for the hard and soft result, for the great work behind and I like to talk about it. Another thing which is highly appreciated by my clients, is certainly contemporary look of my items thanks to the steel which is used often as a support to mount the strings of pearls, so I somehow “mistreat” pearls which are so beautiful. Pearls, gems of grace in this case become aggressive elements.
L.C.: What does contribute to your success?
L.O.: When my jewels are worn, they are recognizable. I make my advertising thanks to my clients, because it’s not possible anyway to confuse them. When you buy one of my pieces, immediately you become my testimonial, wanting or not, even the collector of my jewels, because everyone sees them, admires them, and it’s a success, then after the first piece you buy the second, the third. So it’s a kind of strong identity.
L.C.: “Materia versus materia”. What is it about?
L.O.: I spoke at the Institute of Italian Culture what is going on nowadays. We are in 2016. It’s difficult to identify the object of the moment. My little speech was about blending different languages; modernity is not about to find a new sign in the design, but rather being able to express all our cultures, all our design that we have gradually deposited over time, we got everything we have already seen; everything we’ve done. The novelties are to be expressed by means of new technologies, new designs through CAD, the wax losting, various kinds of stones, such unconventional materials like steel, carbon, titanium, aluminium; with all this new field, that surely is an innovation, and in the future it will be perfected more and more.
L.C.: How do you define luxury?
L.O.: Luxury at the moment is strictly connected with time. Because we are living in the era of communication which has increasingly been revolutionized, where everything is combined with communication. The most important thing is taking time to stop and choose what we like indeed. That’s a true luxury.
27 October 2016/Lusine Chilingarian
Photo Courtesy of Lucia Odescalchi Gioielli