Emanuela Burgener is rare gem among the few female designers creating jewelry today, in an industry predominantly ruled by male designers. She is a motive force of the Margherita Burgener Jewellery. She has infused her own irresistible charm into the design and the company’s mainstream style.
In her one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces, featuring magnificent precious stones of fancy shapes, gold and titanium, she unwaveringly blends classical traditions with contemporary designs. Her jewellery is amazingly charming, the rarest quality, which is the most difficult to achieve. Emanuela Burgener is firmly aware that it is not enough to choose a gemstone, even a very expensive one, to be used in a piece of jewellery to make this adornment undoubtedly favourite. The ultimate condition is the designer’s contribution into this piece of jewellery her life story, her freedom loving spirit, her affection and tenderness. In our interview you will find out what makes the Creative Director of the brand Emanuela Burgener motivated to create stunning one-of-a-kind jewellery adornments signed Margherita Burgener.
L.C. How did you start making jewellery?
E.B. In the 1990s. I moved to Valenza, the capital of Italian High Jewelry. I took with me the poetry of the places I grew up, surrounded by nature. In Valenza I attended the artisan workshop of my future husband, established by his father in 1966 where I discovered my passion for gemstones and jewelry design. In 2003 I created the first pieces of jewellery which bear my surname and the name of my eldest daughter, Margherita. It was the very beginning of the adventure.
L.C. While designing a jewel, is it the story or the stone that is at the origin of your creations?
E.B. The stones represent the true essence of my design. Diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies – carefully selected worldwide due to purity and fancy shapes – are the inspiration and the starting point of all my creations. I like “listening” to the stones and following in some way their nature. With a stone in my hands instinctively I imagine the jewel. A magic that surprises me every time.
L.C. What is(are) your favourite gemstone(s)?
E.B. I love red stones like rubies, rubellites, red spinels. I am an Aries and red is my color. I find in red passion and energy. I also love green beryl, a fine and unusual stone that recalls me the nature, my endless source of inspiration.
L.C. What is it about women that inspires you?
E.B. I am inspired by an independent, sophisticated and not ordinary femininity. I create each piece of jewellery for expressive, self-confident women. A timeless idea of beauty that looks beyond fashions. To me a very special icon of style is Wallis Simpson. She had a fabulous collection of the best bespoke jewels, some of them -with inscriptions. She loved to wear several items at the same time mixing different styles and stones, though always being extremely elegant. Another special woman I am inspired by is Estée Lauder. Being a successful entrepreneur she gave life to the campaign of the Breast Cancer Awarness in 1992, launching the pink ribbon as its symbol. She wanted women to feel beautiful even during tough times. She offered a big support to women and to research. That is a great way to do beauty with a sincere kindness.
L.C. What is your favourite part about being a jewellery designer?
E.B. I always think I’m very lucky to be able to follow every day in my family’s workshop the ancient practices of the artisans. To me it’s a rare and amazing “daily” experience. Above all I love designing for someone special a jewel with a story to tell, imagining a unique and personalized creation is a wonderful experience every time. My jewels are appreciated by men and women who are happy to wear the items I designed for them and it makes me deeply pleased and proud.
L.C. Is jewellery more than just an adornment for a modern woman?
E.B. I think jewel is a beautiful form of expression and can tell a lot about the woman who wears it. More like an objet d’art, the jewel has an “aesthetic and symbolic value”. A jewel can reveal so much about one’s personality and often recall a special and happy time of our lives.
L.C. What kind of jewellery do you wear?
E.B. I like to wear any kind of jewelry. Every day I wear two chain bracelets set with diamonds. They represent my two daughters, and a pair of diamond studs with little interchangeable titanium flowers in different colours, which I adapt to my outfit. Besides I have a passion for brooches. A woman wearing a brooch – old or modern – is definitely a special woman. I love wearing titanium brooches that we’ve recently realized with great satisfaction. They are special pieces, colored, light and very charming.
L.C. Who are your favourite jewellers? Why?
E.B. There are timeless jewels that are part of High Jewelry history as some spectacular creations by Cartier of the 1920s. I appreciate the elegant and original jewelry by Susanne Belperron, a very special woman with an intense history related to the war; and of course the taste for color and details by JAR.
L.C. Please share with us your plans for Margherita Burgener Jewellery for the next years particularly in Russia and Middle East.
E.B. I’d like to increase and promote the design of one-off pieces so that Margherita Burgener could be recognized and appreciated especially for unique and tailor-made pieces.
L.C. Three key words that define Margherita Burgener Jewellery.
E.B. Uniqueness, Italian craftsmanship, Timeless chic.
6 October 2015/Lusine Chilingarian
Photo Courtesy of Margherita Burgener Jewellery