Moretto: iconic jewels by Nardi Gioielleria

The article is devoted to an original jewelry item-moretto. So, what is it?

Blackamoor-moretto, is worn mostly as a pendant, pin, or a motif in earrings; it is designed as the bust of an African man or woman. The head is typically carved of black chalcedony hardstone in three dimensions. Blackamoors date from the middle of 19th to the middle of 20th centuries.
The moretti origins are uncertain, but most sources mention Venice as the source of inspiration.

The unique Jewellery House who creates fabulous moretto brooches is Nardi Gioielleria.

Interior of the boutique Nardi
Interior of the boutique Nardi

Once on the Piazza San Marco, you will sooner or later find Nardi-an elegant enfilade of rooms under five arched vaults.

Giulio Nardi, the founder, Florence born, moved to Venice in the 1920s, where he opened his jewellery boutique in the world famous Piazza San Marco. He has never changed the address and never opened new offices; it is like a dip in the years of unrestrained luxury, when a multitude of celebrities came to make merry in Venice, and lionesses of the great world from Marchioness Casati to Peggy Guggenheim took up their temporary residences there. In the boutique of Nardi you feel like they cherish the atmosphere of those days.

 

The current custodian of the family legacy Alberto Nardi emphasizes that every object traces the tradition and culture of Venice, whether the ring in the form of the Rialto bridge or the brooch in the form of gondola, or cufflinks in the form of miniature molds with two lions.

Before, it was considered a disgrace to visit Venice and not to buy moretto. These purely Venetian things praised Nardi worldwide. The fans of filigree craftsmanship of Venetian goldsmiths were Grace Kelly, Queens of Belgium and Spain, Ingrid Bergman, Elizabeth Taylor and  the likes. Many stars, successors of the brilliant aristocracy wishing to take with them precious memory of this fantastic city, visited Nardi and found fascinating Moorish brooches.

These items are reminiscent of the time when the Venetian Republic was at war with the Moors and Turks. In fact moretto -it is a Shakespeare’s Othello, executed in the technique of Venetian masters of the 18th century.

Today blackamoor busts, first cut out of tortoise shell and then ebony; gold turbans topped with precious stones, are still made by hand in the same atelier in the San Marco Square where in 1931 was born first “Moor”.

Some models of moretto-such as Paola, Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Grace, attracted important names of those for whom they were made to order.

Other items, like the “View of Venice”(consisting of two wings, figure’s chest, revealing scenes of Venice); the “Tree of Life”(platinum jewellery, which Giulio Nardi created for his wife Giuseppina in 1947), are valued due to the fine workmanship.

The Nardi  believes their exquisite brooches are not even ornaments, but a kind of amulets that bring luck. And those who pin the moretto to his chest, declare his love to Venice-the city of water and light with a fabulous past and present. It seems to be true.

Moretto Frange brooch set in rose gold with yellow sapphires, Nardi
Moretto Frange brooch set in rose gold with yellow sapphires, Nardi
Moretto brooch set in gold and silver with fire opals and fancy diamonds, Nardi
Moretto brooch set in gold and silver with fire opals and fancy diamonds, Nardi

 

Moretto Arlecchino in yellow gold with precious stones, Nardi
Moretto Arlecchino in yellow gold with precious stones, Nardi
Moretto brooch set in gold and silver with fancy diamonds, Nardi
Moretto brooch set in gold and silver with fancy diamonds, Nardi

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