Dualistic symbolism: serpent jewellery

JEWELLERY SERPENTARIVM

Two years have past since the Year of the Snake was celebrated on the Chinese calendar, but in the “bestiaire a bijoux” it is still an endless source of inspiration.

The history of jewelry with images of snakes goes deep into the past. Three thousand years ago people wore images of snakes as amulets that can give long life.

They believed that snakes know the secret of eternal life, because they can change the skin, each time, as if reborn. The snake became a symbol of royal power and deity in ancient Egypt. The Egyptians worshiped the goddess Isis, which is endowed with a crown in the form of a cobra Wadjet, who was a symbol of wisdom and authority of the ruler of Egypt. This goddess had the all-seeing eye of wisdom. The serpent Apophis personified the forces of darkness and evil; his image is found on the sarcophagi. According to the legend, Cleopatra loved to entwine her wrists with bracelets of live reptiles.

Roman gold snake ring, c. 1st century B.C.-1st century A.D., sold for $16,250 on an estimate of $3000-5000 (courtesy Christie's Images)
Roman gold snake ring, c. 1st century B.C.-1st century A.D., sold for $16,250 on an estimate of $3000-5000 (courtesy Christie’s Images)

In Ancient Greece and Rome, bracelets in the form of a snake on the hands of Greek and Roman women had given them protection from diseases and fertility.

Bracelet with snakes , pomegranate, greek item of the 2nd century BC, exhibits in Pforzheim
Bracelet with snakes , pomegranate, greek item of the 2nd century BC, exhibits in Pforzheim

“Blue Snake”-a symbol of the Ancient Greek god of healing Asclepius transmits images of the water snake. The popularity of this reptile in the Roman Empire is documented by numerous finds of the Antonine era and later in the IV BC.

Gold ring in the form of a water snake. the roman empire, II BC . Gold bracelet with flared ends as water snakes heads, The Roman Empire, II-III(Antonine era)
Gold ring in the form of a water snake, The Roman Empire, II BC Gold bracelet with flared ends as water snakes heads, The Roman Empire, II-III(Antonine era) Collection of the Louvre
In Europe with the spread of Christianity, the image of a serpent was interpreted as a symbol of temptation, original sin, all evil forces.

The serpent is associated with the femininity and sexuality. According to Jewish legend, the seduction of Eve meant definitely sexual abuse. Since the snake venom is used as a medicine, the snake is a symbol of health, the use of the image of a coiled snake around the bowl as a medical emblem bears witness about it.

Victorian chalcedony brooch
Victorian chalcedony brooch

The serpent jewellery appeared in Europe only in the middle of the 19th century during the reign of Queen Victoria. In 1840 Queen Victoria married her beloved  Prince Albert accepting an engagement ring-snake-shaped ring with the head sculpted around a fascinating emerald. It was a true token of love that the queen always wore as a symbol of eternal love. The popularity of the symbol has reached its peak in 1860. Victorian jewelry is often used intertwining snakes that symbolize infinite love and sexuality, birth and wisdom.

In England the fashion came probably from India, where they have long been worshiped snakes. Snake creatures play an important role in ancient Indian symbolism as guardians earthly treasures. Interestingly, that there is a Jewelry Museum in Pforzheim in Germany, that features the largest collection of the “serpent” jewelry, from Egypt to Sweden, from Indochina to Africa.

From the 19th century snake moved to decorate the jewels created in the 20th century in the era of Art Nouveau with its predilection for natural motifs -plants and insects that features the items created by Rene’ Lalique and George Fouquet.

Corsage ornament in gold, enamel, René Lalique Paris 1898/99
Corsage ornament in gold, enamel, René Lalique Paris 1898/99
Art Nouveau enamel multi gem and diamond corsage ornament, George Fouquet
Art Nouveau enamel multi gem and diamond corsage ornament, George Fouquet

 

Stockknauf Rauchquarz, Gold, Diamanten Carl Fabergé St. Petersburg, um 1900 Privatsammlung
Stockknauf Rauchquarz, Gold, Diamanten Carl Fabergé St. Petersburg, um 1900 Privatsammlung

And now the serpent is not forgotten and still occupies a considerable place among the precious animals. Several jewelry houses have even incorporated the serpent into their Maison’s identity, using it as the central theme in several of their iconic collections: Boucheron, Veschetti,  Bvlgari, Carlo Luca Della Quercia. Let yourself to immerse the unique world of fascinating serpent jewellery right now:)!

Adam bracelet set in rose gold with spessartite garnets, red and pink spinels, yellow sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, Boucheron
Adam bracelet set in rose gold with spessartite garnets, red and pink spinels, yellow sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, Boucheron
Iconic Serpenti bracelet-watch set in rose gold and enamel with diamonds, Bvlgari
Iconic Serpenti bracelet-watch set in rose gold and enamel with diamonds, Bvlgari
Coiled sprung bracelets set with enamels and brilliant-cut diamonds, Veschetti
Coiled sprung bracelets set with enamels and brilliant-cut diamonds, Veschetti
The two-finger Temptation of Eve ring in rose gold with black diamonds and rubies, Stephen Webster
The two-finger Temptation of Eve ring in rose gold with black diamonds and rubies, Stephen Webster
Fancy diamonds snake bracelet, Carlo Luca Della Quercia
Fancy diamonds snake bracelet, Carlo Luca Della Quercia
Snake earrings with emerald beads and diamonds, Cartier
Snake earrings with emerald beads and diamonds, Cartier

 

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